British Cuisine – A Visitor’s Guide

I’ve been researching Japan and in particular suggestions of Japanese food to try.  In order to return the favour to anyone heading to the UK on their travels, here are my top 10 suggestions of British culinary experiences* for tourists who want to experience the typical cuisine.

*Yes, there is an obesity problem in this country.

1.  ”Full English” cooked breakfast (aka the Full Scottish / Welsh / Irish elsewhere in the UK)

  • Location – Best place to get this is in a B&B (it’s one of the “Bs”) or hotel.  Otherwise you can go to a “greasy spoon”, which is a non-chain cafe on the high street or in a motorway service station (look for plastic tomatoes), which will serve an even more calorific version (achieved by extra greasiness and ridiculous portion size).
  • Key Components – Bacon, eggs, sausages and toast or fried bread.
  • Optional Extras – Mushrooms, baked beans, tomatoes, hash browns.
  • Accompanying Beverage – Mug (not cup) of tea.
  • For a Bonus Point – Add black pudding – a type of blood sausage.

2.  Cream Tea

  • Location – Cute cafes in rural tourist spots and posh London hotels.
  • Key Components – Scones, a type of  small cake, sometimes with dried fruit.  They are pretty bland but their purpose is to be a canvas for great big spoonfuls of jam and clotted cream (must be clotted, not whipped etc).
  • Optional Extras – Small thin sandwiches and a selection of other cakes.
  • Accompanying Beverage – Pot of tea – so you get a whole teapot full, which you pour yourself into a cup and saucer (not mug).
  • For a Bonus Point – Try both the “jam then cream” and the “cream then jam” methods on the different halves of your scone.  You will then be able to participate in the great scone debate that rages throughout the country (but mainly in the Beet household).

3.  Fish and Chips 

  • Location – A fish and chip shop (or “chippy”).  You can get them in pubs and restaurants, but chip shop is preferable.
  • Key Components – Deep fried, battered fish (usually cod) and chips.  Salt and vinegar.  Bread and butter so you can make a “chip butty”.
  • Optional Extras – Mushy peas / pea wet, ketchup, curry sauce.  Pies and battered sausages are usually offered as alternatives to fish.
  • Accompanying Beverage – If eating them at home, a mug of tea.  If eating them al fresco, get a can of fizzy drink as you will be thirsty if you have added the requisite amount of salt.
  • For a Bonus Point – Try a pickled egg.

4.  Sausages and Mash (aka Bangers and Mash, but nobody really calls them “bangers”)

  • Location – At home, in a pub or restaurant.
  • Key Components – Sausages, mashed potato, onion gravy.
  • Optional Extras – Veggies if you’re feeling healthy.
  • Accompanying Beverage – Tea at home, beer in pub.
  • For a Bonus Point – If you liked sausage and mash then you should try “toad in the hole” which is similar except the sausages are encased in batter (NB not like a battered sausage from the chippy, but like a yorkshire pudding).

5.  Curry

  • Location – Curry houses are on every high street.  Brick Lane in East London is famous for its curry houses and Birmingham has a “curry mile”.
  • Key Components – Curry (spicy meat or vegetable stew), rice, naan bread, poppadoms, selection of chutneys.  If you’re going to do it properly then these are all required components.
  • Optional Extras – Onion bhajis or sag aloo if you think you’ll have any room for them in addition to all the key components.
  • Accompanying Beverage – Lager, lots of.
  • For a Bonus Point – Choose the hottest curry on the menu, usually a phal or a vindaloo.

6.  Sunday Lunch  (aka Sunday Roast, Roast Dinner, Sunday Dinner but for some reason hardly ever Roast Lunch)

  • Location – Pub or at your (or someone else’s) parents’ house.
  • Key Components – Some kind of roast meat, roast potatoes, selection of vegetables (carrots, cabbage, parsnips etc), gravy.
  • Optional Extras – Choice of meat; beef (to be accompanied by yorkshire pudding and horseradish sauce), chicken (sage and onion stuffing), pork (apple sauce) or lamb (mint sauce).
  • Accompanying Beverage – Beer (pub), tea (parents).
  • For a Bonus Point – If your appetite is robust and your trousers loose, combine with no. 7.

7.  Pudding

  • Location – Pub or at your (or someone else’s) grandparents (Grandmothers tend to specialise in puddings)
  • Key Components – Some kind of steamed sponge pudding (treacle sponge, sticky toffee, ginger pudding) or crumble (stewed fruit covered in a crunchy topping).
  • Optional Extras – Custard is a must during winter months, in the summer ice cream is an acceptable alternative.
  • Accompanying Beverage – Probably more tea.
  • For a Bonus Point – Once you’ve mastered steamed puddings and crumbles, try a trifle (layers of custard, jelly, fruit, cake and cream).  I once confounded a Frenchwoman by taking a trifle to a house party.   “There is no word in French for this…trifle.”

8.  Pie and Mash (I make no apologies for including both sausage and mash and pie and mash.  The combination of cheap cuts of meat and potatoes is the bedrock of British cuisine.)

  • Location – Pubs, restaurants or at home.
  • Key Components – Meat pie (stewed meat in pastry), mashed potatoes, gravy.
  • Optional Extras – Vegetables, brown (HP) sauce.
  • Accompanying Beverage – Beer (pub) or tea (home)
  • For a Bonus Point – Once you’ve tried steak and kidney pie, try steak and kidney pudding, which is widely considered to be superior.

9. Cornish Pasty

  • Location – Service stations and bakers.
  • Key Components – To the untrained eye, a pasty is much like a pie in that it is stewed meat and vegetables in pastry.  The difference is the pasty is generally eaten by itself as a portable meal and the potato is on the inside.
  • Optional Extras – There are such things as “chicken tikka pasties” but these are an abomination.  Stick to traditional beef.
  • Accompanying Beverage – Sticking with the West Country theme, you could have a cider.
  • For a Bonus Point – Get one in Cornwall.

10.  Kebab

  • Location – Kebab shops are on every high street.  Noticeable for being open to the early hours of the morning and catering to the post-pub consumer.
  • Key Components – Meat carved from the giant, rotating “elephant’s leg”, pitta bread, limp salad, chilli sauce.
  • Optional Extras – The shop will usually offer alternatives to the kebab; burgers, chicken etc.  As long as it’s something that you would turn your nose up at when sober, but now seems strangely appetising, it counts.
  • Accompanying Beverage – 6 to 10 pints of lager beforehand is de rigeur.
  • For a Bonus Point – Spot someone fighting, vomiting or urinating in the immediate vicinity of (or even inside) the kebab shop.  This is local colour and more important than the kebab itself.
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Although not strictly speaking a meal, another British culinary and cultural institution is:
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A Nice Sit-Down with a Cup of Tea 
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  • Tea must be generic, not a specific type (Earl Grey, Darjeeling etc).  If in doubt in a cafe ask for “builder’s tea” or if they really insist on offering you an array of “proper” teas then go for English Breakfast.
  • Tea bag in cup first, then add hot water.  If you just dunk a tea bag into a cup full of hot water, the result is weak as gnat’s piss.
  • Award yourself a bonus point for each of the following biscuits identified and consumed; digestives (chocolate and plain), hobnobs (chocolate and plain), rich tea, nice, ginger nuts, jaffa cakes, jammy dodgers, chocolate bourbons, custard creams.
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Drinks
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I realise that most of the drinks listed above are either beer or tea.  If you want to branch out, you could try;
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  • Shandy – lager and lemonade
  • G&T  - gin and tonic
  • Whisk(e)y – especially if you are in Scotland or Ireland
  • Pimms – alcoholic punch type thing served with fresh fruit
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  • I’m racking my brains for a non-alcoholic traditional British drink apart from tea.  Horlicks?

London – U iz doin it rong

We’ve been planning our next holiday and to do our research we’ve been reading people’s travel blogs.  I always like to read their blogs about London because it’s interesting to hear their impressions of somewhere I know.  But they are all doing it wrong.  Here are my top tips to people visiting London.

1.  Why are you obsessed with “Mind the Gap”?  I never realised it before but (mainly antipodean) travellers think it’s hilarious and one of the iconic things about London.  I don’t get it.

2.  The whole point about London is that it’s international.  Go to a traditional British pub one night by all means.  But go to a Japanese restaurant or a Brazilian bar as well.  You’re visiting London now, not London in the 1950s.

3.  Remember that the UK is part of the EU.  It is therefore not hilariously incongruous that your hotel receptionist is Portuguese or your waiter is Polish.

4.  The following are strictly for tourists and best avoided; Piccadilly Circus (sorry Jo), Madame Tussauds, the London Dungeons, the Trocadero, Harrods*.  I’ll let you feed the pigeons at Trafalgar Square at a pinch,  if you check out the fourth plinth and pop into the National Gallery while you’re there.

*If you must go to a big posh shop, then Selfridges is much better.

5.  The following tourist things are worth doing; the London Eye and an open top bus tour.  Most of time you’ll be travelling by tube, so these both offer a good chance to see the layout of the city and how it all fits together.  Walking along the South Bank is also a good way to see lots of cool stuff - Tower Bridge, City Hall, HMS Belfast, the Golden Hinde, Southwark Cathedral, the Globe, Tate Modern, Royal Festival Hall, London Eye and a good view of Big Ben over the river.  If you only have half a day or less in London between flights – spend it here.

6. London is expensive, but there’s also lots to do for free.  Museums in London are generally free and generally brilliant.  Because they are free you don’t have to spend the whole day there to feel like you’re getting your money’s worth.  Pop into any one that you happen to be passing and have a nose around for 15 minutes.  My favourite ones that are worth making a special effort to go to are Tate Modern, the Wallace Collection and the Natural History Museum.

7.  London has great parks.  My favourite view of London is from the bridge at St James Park with Buckingham Palace to one side and Whitehall and the Eye to the other.  Hyde Park and Regents Park are also central and each has a different character.  Further out are Richmond, Hampstead Heath and Greenwich.

8.  Go to the theatre.  The Globe theatre is a fantastically interesting building in its own right and to see Shakespeare performed there is a unique experience.  But if Shakespeare’s not your thing then grab Time Out and find a play that interests you.  If you’re not sure then the National Theatre or the Old Vic in particular usually have reliably high quality productions.  The Royal Opera House in Covent Garden is another great building so if opera or ballet is your thing then try that (I’m presuming that if opera and/or ballet is your thing then having lots of cash is also your thing).  Or there’s lots of musicals if that’s your bag, but of course these are generally international productions that you could see in any big city.

9. If you want to sample ”London” food then my top recommendation would be a curry from Brick Lane.  Fish and chips and bangers and mash are all very well, but don’t spend your whole time eating this stuff, like I said above, London is international so eat noodles, pizza, dim sum, etc.  If you’re the sort of person who likes to eat the weirdest thing they can find: dog, shark, snake etc, then the London equivalent is jellied eels.  Very few Londoners actually still eat these, but they are a traditional London thing and they are disgusting, so fill your boots.

10. Don’t salute the Union Jack and think you are being British.  I can’t think of anything less British.  We don’t give a crap about our flag.  We’re not American.

11. If you come from somewhere where a building from the 1950s is considered historic then check out the Tower of London, the Observatory at Greenwich and the Royal Palaces.  If that’s whetted your appetite then check out other National Trust and English Heritage places.

12.  Good places to visit on the outskirts of London (so you feel like you’re getting out of the big city, but still easy to get to on the train) are Kew Gardens, Windsor, Downe House and Leeds Castle.

13.  People seem to like to spectate at a local sporting event.  London is obviously big enough that virtually any sport you can think of is catered for, but the popular ones are football, cricket and rugby.  Tennis is popular for two weeks every summer when Wimbledon is on.  If money is no object, get a ticket to a venue (there’s loads of great stadia in London – Wembley, the Oval, Lords, Twickenham, the Emirates, Stamford Bridge, Selhurst Park, Wimbledon), otherwise lots of pubs have sport on TV and this is also a traditional experience.  If you’re going to watch the footie, then Arsenal play the most attractive game if they’re on good form.  Cricket takes all day and is incomprehensible to the casual observer, so I’d only recommend it for those who are already familiar.

14. People also like to go to markets when travelling.  In London we have Borough (food), Portobello Road (antiques, clothes) and Greenwich (food, clothes and bits and pieces).  I’m not a fan of Covent Garden myself.

15. No native Londoner has ever been to an Aberdeen Angus Steakhouse.

16. If you want to pose in an old school phone box, be prepared to face a wall full of pornography.

17. Under no circumstances buy anything with a Union Jack, I Heart London or a picture of Princess Diana on it.

18. It has been known to rain in London.  Bring an umbrella / raincoat with you.  Plastic poncho is not a good look.

19. Try to understand the difference between England and the UK.  If you say England when you mean the whole of the UK then God help you if there’s a Scottish person within earshot.

20. If you go on the tube at rush hour, it will be busy.  I repeat, it will be busy.  Remember that your fellow travellers are probably commuters who do this every day, so they don’t really want to hear your complaints about how squashed you are.  If you’re that precious, then pay for a taxi.

I’m off to New York in two weeks, where no doubt I will do all the equivalent cheesy tourist stuff.  Picture of me in Times Square with I Heart NY baseball cap to follow.